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| Compost garden |
| Rebecca meets a compost 'guru' to talk about the ins and outs of compost gardening. |
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Composting is a great way to reduce and recycle kitchen and garden waste. Composting will transform discarded peels and unwanted prunings into valuable garden products. Rebecca meets compost 'guru' Peter Rutherford, author of the Australian Compost and Worm Book, to talk about the ins and outs of compost gardening.
Compost is derived from broken down kitchen and garden waste, which if managed correctly, will eventually break down to a rich organic substance called humus. Humus is a natural fertiliser, valuable to the garden. As well as adding nutrients humus helps to conserve water and encourages earthworms.
Composting is great for the environment because it can reduce the amount of household and garden waste by 30%. Compost bins can be bought from most major nurseries or garden centres or you can construct your own from brick, stone or timber. A compost heap can be made on soil and covered in black plastic
A worm farm can also be used for composting. Worms consume organic waste and turn it into worm castings, which can be used in the garden as a soil conditioner, or in potting mixes. Worms will eat all the food and vegetable scraps from the kitchen, both raw and cooked. As with normal composting, things such as meat, dairy products and bread should not be added.
A compost bin or heap should be located in a convenient spot on level ground to prevent it from falling over. It should be placed in an area where there is shade which will prevent it from cooking in the sun.
What to put in a compost- Fruit and vegetable peelings and leaves
- tea leaves/ tea bags and coffee grounds
- fallen leaves
- grass clippings
- soft prunings
- weeds (use only young weeds; those with seed, or about to set seed, are better disposed of in the garbage bin)
- cow and horse manures
- ash (from open fireplaces)
- vacuum cleaner contents (synthetic carpet will not break down)
What not to put in a compost bin
It is important that the heap is not treated simply as a dump. - Meat, fish, chicken, dairy products & cooking oils - these may attract vermin such as mice and other pests.
- Non-living things such as plastics, bottle tops, food wrappers, metals etc
- Diseased plants
- Fruit fly infested fruit
- Pet droppings: these may contain diseases that can affect humans and other pets. Although these can be treated with the Pet Poo Converter to make them safe for use in compost.
HOW DO YOU COMPOST? - A good mixture of the above-mentioned materials ('what to put in a compost') is the start to a good compost. It is best not to add too much of the one thing. Balance is the key.
- The smaller the pieces, the faster they break down. Chop up larger and tougher items before they go in the bin.
- Occasionally add a thin (3-5cm) layer of soil to help things move along. The addition of manure will also help the compost break down more quickly.
- The compost should be regularly turned over to help it to break down faster.
COMPOST ADDITIVES
Many materials compost satisfactorily, but additional ingredients such as nitrogen will help speed up the process. Nitrogen may be provided as artificial fertiliser, proprietary compost accelerator or as well-rotted manure. Nitrogen can be added to the compost heap in alternative layers of organic material and manure.
COMPOST PROBLEMS
Smelly compost- If the compost smells like sulphur (rotten eggs) then it's possible that it's too wet. Add dry ingredients such as grass clippings, dried leaves or shredded newspaper.
- Turning the compost over to incorporate air and adding lime may also help to reduce odours.
- If the compost smells like ammonia (acidic) add materials containing carbon, such as ash or dolomite.
Vermin- If pests, such as blowflies, dogs, cats or rodents, are attracted to the compost heap it is usually because improper materials have been added. Avoid putting any meat, chicken fish or other fatty food scraps in the compost.
- Vermin may also be attracted to the warmth of the pile.
- Being high in nutrients the compost heap may also attract a range of harmless insects including the "compost fly" which in fact indicate that the compost is working properly - they are all part of the natural process of composting.
- Using a compost bin and keeping the lid on, will reduce the number of insects attracted.
- Covering each addition of food with a layer of soil may also help.
Ants- A dry compost heap can become an ant heap but no harm will be done. The ants will redistribute all the material, so the heap will not need to be tossed. It may help to water the pile and add moisture-rich ingredients.
- The day before using ant-infested compost, water it well and the ants will leave.
Too wet or too dry- Compost needs to be kept moist but not wet. If the heap or bin is covered it will be necessary to wet the compost down with a hose occasionally.
- If the compost gets too dry fungal spores (a fine powder) may form which when disturbed can be dangerous to breathe in. If this occurs, wet the heap, cover with soil and allow to sit for a few days.
- If the compost gets too wet turning it to incorporate air should help as will the addition of some dry material such as grass clippings.
Taking too long to break down
If a compost is too wet or too dry, or if there is not enough air it may take too long to break down. This might mean there is an imbalance in the ingredients for example thick layers of grass clippings or newspaper quickly absorb moisture, forming a dense mass which resists decomposition and prevents proper air movement
HOW TO USE COMPOST
When the compost is dark, crumbly and sweet-smelling it is ready to use in the garden. - Compost can be dug into the existing soil of a garden bed. If the compost is mature, there should be no risk of it burning plants so harm will not be done if it touches the stems.
- Compost can also be used as a mulch around existing plants. Established shrubs and fruit trees will benefit from a ring of compost. Fork it in around the drip line, where water drips from the outermost leaves. The fine roots will benefit from this as they grow outward and the ground will retain moisture in hot or windy weather.
NB: Wear gardening gloves when handling compost and wash your hands afterwards.
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More Info
Peter Rutherford is the author of
The Australian Compost and Worm Book
$15.95 available from leading book stores.
For information and availability of the
Tumbleweed Pet Poo Converter & the
Tumbleweed Worm Farm
contact Tumbleweed Sales Pty Limited
Ph: (02) 9809 7222 or toll free 1800 809 088
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Disclaimer
All Fact Sheets and other material on the Our House website are provided as a general information service only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for the advice of a properly qualified tradesman. Neither ninemsn nor its licensors (including the Nine Network) assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable for the accuracy or appropriate application of any information whatsoever in any Fact Sheet or other material on the Our House web site. Your use of the Our House web site is governed by this disclaimer and the ninemsn's Terms of Use.
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