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| Hall Table DIY |
| Even if you're not a skilled cabinetmaker, you can still make a great hall table. |
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If you've been looking for a specific piece of furniture and you just can't find what you want, or if you've already decided to give it a go and do it yourself, visiting a hardware store can be a great start. Hardware stores often have lots of things pre-made, such as decorative trims or table legs. We made a hall table 750mm high, 1230mm long and 625mm wide.
1
The first step is to make up the top of the table. Round over the top edges of the 12mm MDF with either a hand plane or a router and give it a light sand (see diagram 1). When using MDF, remember to wear protective gear.
2
Add a frame of timber strips around the edge to make it look more substantial. This frame is made from 2 x 460mm lengths and 2 x 1210mm lengths of pine. Mitre the ends of the pine using the mitre box and hand saw or mitre saw before attaching to the underside of the top, creating a 5mm wide ledge. The frame is a simple butt joint construction that is glued and screwed (28 mm) to the existing edge work. Our MDF top is 1200mm x 450mm so the outside dimension of our frame will be 1210mm x 460mm. The easiest way to get the ledge even is to mark in 5mm on the mitre. Line it up with the corner of the table top, glue, and screw into position. Do this with the short length first and then fit the longer length in between for an even ledge all round (see diagram 2).
3
Next, make up the rails of the table for the legs and decorative trim to be attached to. These rails will be secured inside the pine frame you've just made, and are fixed on their edge. Use the two 375mm lengths and the two 1135mm lengths of pine. The two longer lengths are fixed in first with glue and screws and then the two shorter lengths are fixed in between.
4
Attach the two 10mm and two 20mm lengths of pine around each corner by gluing and then screwing. This will provide a bigger and stronger fastening point for the legs. Sand down any sharp edges.
5
Glue and nail the decorative strip to the pine rails. Mitre the ends of the strip and make sure this strip is the same width as the pine rail so there is no overhang.
6
Glue and screw (use 50mm screws) the legs to the corners of the pine rails and the corner blocks.
7
Paint the table with a couple of coats of flat acrylic (we used cream acrylic paint) and apply a furniture wax for that hand-rubbed look.
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Materials
1 sheet of 12mm MDF 1220 x 450mm
70mm x 20mm x 6600mm length radiata pine, cut into:
2 x 460mm lengths (frame)
2 x 1210mm lengths (frame)
2 x 375mm (rails)
2 x 1135mm (rails)
2 x 10mm (corner blocks)
2 x 20mm (corner blocks)
4 cabriole legs
Decorative trim x 3100mm length
Glue
Screws (28mm and 50mm)
Sandpaper
TOOLS
Drill/screw gun
Hand saw & mitre box or mitre saw
Hand plane
Sanding block
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Cost
MDF $ 9.00
Radiata pine $ 10.00
Cabriole Legs $ 80.00
Decorative trim $ 26.00
Glue, screws, sandpaper $ 2.00
Total: $ 127.00 (Plus paint)
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More Info
Cabriole legs and decorative trim are available from The Hardware House, corner of Parramatta Road/Frederick Street, Ashfield NSW 2131 Ph: 9798 5255.
For other Hardware House stores check your Yellow Pages.
Table legs are also available from BBC stores nationally.
Other timber and hardware available from leading hardware stores.
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Disclaimer
All Fact Sheets and other material on the Our House website are provided as a general information service only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for the advice of a properly qualified tradesman. Neither ninemsn nor its licensors (including the Nine Network) assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable for the accuracy or appropriate application of any information whatsoever in any Fact Sheet or other material on the Our House web site. Your use of the Our House web site is governed by this disclaimer and the ninemsn's Terms of Use.
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