Shirl creates a clever kitchen storage cupboard perfect for storing table linen, tea towels, trinkets and more!
STEP BY STEP
1 Cutting veneered board effectively requires specialist machinery, so have all pieces pre-cut by your local cabinet maker. If your cabinet maker can't apply the edging, this can be done at home with a household iron (hottest setting). The cutting list indicates which pieces need edging (see key at end of step by step). 2 If you are doing the edging yourself, set the iron to the highest temperature. Slowly move the iron along the edge so the glue has time to adhere. Follow the iron with a scrap block to press the edging firmly to the board. 3 Allow the edging to cool, then trim with a smooth file. Trim overhanging ends by cutting the underside with a utility knife and folding (towards the cut side). 4 Mark the positions of the shelves on the two end pieces (as shown). Take care when measuring the positions of the screws as they will be seen when the project is finished. 5 Drill a clearance hole through the ends only. A clearance hole should be slightly larger than the size of the thread of the screw; the screw should fit snugly. 6 Pre-sand all pieces before assembly. Attach shelves to ends using decorative wood screws; drill a pilot hole into shelf ends. The correct size of pilot hole is the diameter of the core of the screw, i.e.: the shank below the thread. 7 The decorative screws have a hexagonal drive, to save on elbow grease cut down the Allen key provided and use this in your drill as a screwdriver. Be very careful not to strip the thread while using a power drill. 8 Pre-assemble pigeonhole section and slide in position, secure through ends and top with decorative screws. 9 Turn the unit over and attach the back, making sure it is flush on top and at the sides. Assemble the base by screwing into place. Attach veneered face pieces to base, mitring the corners and screwing from the inside of the base. Apply a small amount of wood glue to the mitres and use masking tape if necessary. 10 Assemble the drawer boxes by gluing and nailing. Use fine panel pins to avoid splitting the MDF. The front and back fit between the sides. 11 Slide drawers into position and check for fit. Attach false fronts by screwing from inside of drawer. Attach doors (your local cabinet maker may be able to assist you with drilling). Concealed cabinet hinges require a 35mm hole drilled on the inside face of the door approximately 5mm from the edge and 12mm deep. You can drill the hole with a specific 'hinge cutter' or a modified spade bit will suffice. You need to reduce the length of the point to avoid a nasty surprise on the face of the door. 12 Mark out and drill handle holes. Sand entire unit; remove all pencil lines and finger marks. Apply three coats lacquer or desired finish. If a spray finish is desired, the unit will need to be disassembled and sprayed as flat panels. If this is the case very carefully mark and number each piece thoroughly so there is no confusion when re-assembling. Attach handles.
Diagrams
 |