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| Letterbox DIY |
Shirl knocks up a letterbox that's easy to make and will be the envy of everyone in your street.
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The letterbox is one of the first things people see when visiting your house. An old can or wooden box will do the job, but they're not very attractive. Shirl has plans for a great new mailbox that's easy to make and will be the envy of everyone in your street.
STEP BY STEP
1 Cut all the pieces and dress to size as per cutting list. Label each part and mark the face sides and edges.
2 Cut the 7mm MDF to 300mm x 280mm and a piece 280mm x 35mm for a stop. Glue the stop to the back and flush with the bottom of the jig. Mark as shown in figure 1. Clearly mark the waste areas to be cut out. Use the cut outs of the door and windows as a template to follow with your router. The size of the recess will finish slightly smaller than the cut out, allowing for the guide and cutter fitted (see fig.2)
3 The shaded areas can be cut out in a variety of ways, depending on the tools in your workshop. Using a jigsaw will cut down on elbow grease. If not, a coping saw will do the trick. Drill a starting hole at all four corners (the size of the hole will be determined by the method used to make the cut out). Cut carefully, just on the inside of the line. If you are using a variable speed jigsaw to make the cutouts, slow the speed to give you more control.
4 Use the jig to router recesses in the front, back and side pieces. Remember to label each piece carefully to avoid confusion when routing. Position the jig in the centre to make windows on the side pieces. For the back, only the top area is routed. Set the depth of the router to the total thickness of the jig material plus 3mm.
5 Mark the mail slot on the front piece (see fig. 1) then drill a hole at each end using an 18mm speed bore. Make sure you clamp the work piece securely to the bench, using scrap blocks below and beneath to protect the timber. When both holes have been drilled, cut along the lines to form a slot. Mitre the top edge of the two side pieces using a plane (the long side of the mitre is the inside).
6 Cut the door from the back piece 15mm high and 20mm in from each end. Trim the top edge and re-use as the door. Fit the piano hinge by placing the door on the back (with outsides facing each other) using minimal screws. If no adjustment is necessary, continue with the remaining screws.
7 When all the pieces have been machined, it is time to assemble. Drill two evenly spaced screw holes through the face and back pieces. Using a 9mm speed bore drill holes to 6mm deep (use masking tape around the drill as a depth stop). This hole will accommodate the plugs to be fitted later. Drill the remaining thickness with a 4mm drill bit as a clearance hole. Before assembly give all the surfaces a quick sand then screw the pieces together and fit the bottom. Cut some plugs from scrap material, slightly longer than the depth of the holes, glue in and flush off. Next fit the roofing material, sand all external surfaces and arris any sharp edges.
Stand:
1 Cut a 30° angle at each end of the cross rail. We used a tee bridle joint to join the cross rail to the vertical post (see fig.3), using a marking gauge. Saw to the lines and chisel out waste. Once the joint is assembled, drill a 10mm hole through the joint and insert a 10mm dowel slightly longer than the overall thickness. Let glue dry then flush.
2 Sand and round all corners. Fix the stand centrally to the underside of the mailbox. Drill, screw and plug fixing holes. Cut and fix braces, plug screw holes. Each brace has a 30° angle at one end and a 60° angle at the other, short side to the inside.
3 Thoroughly sand the entire mailbox and finish in your choice of clear or colours. Fit timber knob to door.
Diagrams
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Materials
Dressed All Round (DAR) Western Red Cedar (WRC), quantities following*
Piano hinge, brass or stainless steel with suitable screws
Timber knob and suitable screws
38 x 6G Wood screws (Pozi drive or Phillips head)
30mm galvanised flat head nails
Stand
40x40 DAR WRC (to make 1 x vertical post 900mm)
40x40 DAR WRC (to make 1 x cross rail 300mm)
40x18 DAR WRC (to make 2 x braces 250mm and 2 x braces 205mm)
7mm MDF (for routering jig)
Mail box:
1 x DAR WRC 340mm x 242mm x 18mm (to make the bottom)
2 x DAR WRC 340mm x 143mm x 18mm (to make the sides)
2 x DAR WRC 280 mm x 262mm x 18mm (to make the front and back)
Rough Sawn Cedar 125mm x 12mm (to make the roof)
*NB: If you purchase 1500mm x 300mm x 25mm DAR you will be able to cut all the required pieces. Cut two side pieces out of the width and use the off cuts for the braces and plugs.
TOOLS
9mm and 18mm speed bore
Power drill
4mm drill bit
9mm plug cutter
Small router or trimmer with template guide
Straight router cutter to suit diameter of template guide
Screw driver or cordless drill
Plane (hand or electric)
Jigsaw (with fine blade)
G or F clamps
Marking gauge or combination square |
More Info
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION
The letterbox cost around $60 to make. This includes buying the wood, hinges, knob and screws available from Home Timber & Hardware.
Glue for the DIY Letterbox is called Mitre Mate. It costs $29.95 (plus GST postage and handling) and is available from Ed Frendo.
Ph: 02 9863 5407
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Disclaimer
All Fact Sheets and other material on the Our House website are provided as a general information service only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for the advice of a properly qualified tradesman. Neither ninemsn nor its licensors (including the Nine Network) assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable for the accuracy or appropriate application of any information whatsoever in any Fact Sheet or other material on the Our House web site. Your use of the Our House web site is governed by this disclaimer and the ninemsn's Terms of Use.
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