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| Saw Horse |
| A sawhorse from the hardware store could set you back a few dollars, but you can easily make one out of scrap wood for next to nothing. |
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To make an even better bargain there's a removable top which can be taken off and replaced with a new one if it's damaged or worn out.
STEP BY STEP:
1 Mark 150mm from the end of the back for the first leg position. But slant the leg back (see main diagram A) so the top edge of the leg is at about 170mm and on the lower side of the back at about 135mm.
2 The legs need to be splayed out at an angle, so tilt the leg out to measure a gap of 20mm (see diagram B). This is also the depth you will need to chisel out on the top side (back) for the leg to sit in an angled rebate. Use a bevel to set the angle of the leg, and mark the top of the back with the same angle measuring 20mm in depth. (see diagram C)
3 Transfer the same angle measurements to the other three leg positions.
4 To make chiselling the angled sections easier, saw along the marked line edges and a couple of places in between.
5 Squirt a bit of glue on the angled rebate and screw the legs in place (two screws in each leg). The legs should stand taller than the back, the tops will be cut off later.
6 For the plywood ends, plane the top edge to fit neatly up under the back piece.
7 Trim the sides of the ply end pieces so they are angled in line with the legs and there's no overhang. (see diagram D)
8 With a line of glue down each side, screw the ends on with three screws on each side.
9 Cut the tops off the legs, so the back surface is flat.
10 Using wood off cuts under the shorter legs, sit the sawhorse so it is level - checking it with a spirit level on the back.
11 To make the sawhorse balanced and low enough to put your knee on, mark each leg at the same level using a timber block as a guide. Then saw off the excess leg length to level the horse. Our leg length was 710mm but you should adjust the sawhorse height for your own needs.
12 Cut a piece of plywood slightly larger than the back and screw in place over the top of the back of the sawhorse. Don't glue this down, just use screws to secure it so you can remove it when it's worn out; leaving the original sawhorse in top condition.
Diagram A
Diagram B
Diagram C
Diagram D
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Materials
One 4" x 2" piece of pine for back, 1050mm in length
Four pieces 3" x 1 1/2" pine for legs (ours were 710mm long but adjust according to your height)
Three plywood pieces (two for ends to prevent splaying, and one for removable top — a bit bigger than the pine back)
Screws
Wood glue
Tools
handsaw
drill
bevel
chisel
hammer
electric plane
spirit level
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Total Cost
The saw horse cost Shirl approximately $15.
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More Info
Materials available from your local hardware store (or use scraps from your home workshop).
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Disclaimer
All Fact Sheets and other material on the Our House website are provided as a general information service only and should not be relied upon as a substitute for the advice of a properly qualified tradesman. Neither ninemsn nor its licensors (including the Nine Network) assume or accept any responsibility for, and will not be liable for the accuracy or appropriate application of any information whatsoever in any Fact Sheet or other material on the Our House web site. Your use of the Our House web site is governed by this disclaimer and the ninemsn's Terms of Use.
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