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| Hanging magazine rack |
| Where to store your magazines, whether they are old or new, is always a problem. This solution is not only practical but an eye catching feature for any wall. |
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Alexis Sendall, a regular Our House viewer has a few workshop projects in mind for her house but she says she can't even hammer a nail. So Shirl has set out to make one of her great storage ideas a hanging magazine rack.
Where to store your magazines, whether they are old or new is always a problem. Before you know it they start piling up and causing a mess. A simple solution is to get them off the floor, in easy view and reach. This hanging magazine rack is not only practical but an eye catching feature for any wall.
The magazine rack can be made longer or wider, and can be suspended from the ceiling or hung on the wall although the hanging technique according to the weight of the rack. It can sit on the floor for extra support, using the hanging rope as steadying tool. Remember if the rack is to sit on the floor the bottom rail must be high enough to allow the last magazine to hang. STEP BY STEP: 1 Lie the side panels flat on a bench and mark the first of eight rail points 50mm from the bottom. Then mark the other seven lines 140mm apart up the side panel.
2 Go back to the first pencilled line and mark in 20mm from the side edge. This point marks where the first dowel rail will go. Do the same at the other end at the last line (at the top of the rack), but measure in from the opposite edge.
3 Go back to the first dowel point marked (at the bottom of the rack.) Mark a second point 20mm in from the opposite side. This allows for two rails on the bottom which will stop the rack from twisting. The head rail will steady the top.
4 Using a long ruler, line up diagonally between the two points at each end of the side panel and mark the points which correspond with each line marked at the 140mm intervals (step 1). The staggering of the rails will allow the magazines to hang freely from each other for easy access.
5 Transfer all measurements to the other side panel.
6 Using a hammer and nail, punch a small hole at each of the dowel points so the pencil marks can be sanded off to allow for a natural timber finish.
7 Drill two holes (half the length of the dowel pegs) in each end of the head rail at each side for the small dowels. To position the head rail (almost three centimetres down from the top of the rack) drill two holes corresponding to the holes in the sides of the head rail.
8 Then drill holes at the marked points along the side panels 15mm deep to fit dowel rails.
9 Put a spot of glue in each hole for the head rail dowel pegs. Tap dowels into place with a hammer. Fit the head rail over the dowel pegs rail and tap into place. Glue the remaining holes for dowel rails.
10 Tap in dowel rails and fit the other side panel in the same way. Hold the unit together with a sash cramp at the head rail end and leave to dry after a few taps on each side to make sure all the rails are firmly in place.
11 Finish with a spray varnish.
12 Finish up with screwing an eyelette into the top of each side panel and hang with rope from the ceiling or wall. Position the eyelettes towards the back of the side panels so the rack sits flat against the wall.
Diagrams


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Materials Dowel (rails) 12.5mm (9 pieces cut to 630mm lengths, allowing for inset to side panels) Side Posts 130mm x 30mm x 1200mm Head Rail 600mm x 30mm x 90mm (We used Pacific Maple for the sides and head rail, but pine or many other woods can be used although they should not be too heavy) Dowel Pegs Eyelettes x 2 (to screw in top of side posts for hanging) Nylon Rope (depends on desired hanging height but we used 800mm) Spray Stained Varnish TOOLS: Hand Saw Drill Hammer PVA glue Long ruler Sash cramp
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Total Cost Approximately $40
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More Info All materials available from leading hardware stores.
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Disclaimer
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